2.26.2007

the luxury hotels of Bora Bora

There are now five luxury hotels in Bora Bora and a sixth under construction. Each offers something distinctive to its guests. How to choose the best hotel for you? Begin with this question: What kind of experience do you want to have in Bora Bora?

If you want to stay right on the best beach in Bora Bora, Hotel Bora Bora is your choice. This was the hotel that opened up this destination. Built in 1961, Hotel Bora (as the locals call it) came up with the innovation of the overwater bungalow. However, this hotel has only 15 of them. Because they are off to one end of the property, away from the beach, they don't ruin the view, as is the case with every other resort in Bora Bora. I recommend staying either in a Beach Bungalow (474 sf) or a Premium Beach Bungalow (768 sf). Though the baths in this property could use some updating (they have square white ceramic tiles, and the shower has a curtain, not a glass door), you step right out of your bungalow onto a beach lined with shade trees, lounge chairs, and hammocks strung between the palm trees. Hotel Bora gives you an old-fashioned sand-between-your-toes experience!

If you want to snorkel, your best choice is the Bora Bora Lagoon Hotel. This fourteen year old resort was the first built on a motu (one of the outlying islands of Bora Bora). Situated directly across from the small harbor village of Vaitape (a free two-minute shuttle boat away), this resort offers a great sunrise view of Mount Pahia, the remnant of the volcano that formed Bora Bora. The snorkeling is great, due to the coral that lines the bottom of this area of the lagoon. You can slip right into the water from an overwater bungalow, but I would recommend booking one of three newly built One Bedroom Pool Villas that Orient Express has developed since acquiring this resort four years ago. You enter your villa through your living room to reach a large bedroom. The villas feature beautiful bathrooms with marble-countered double vanities, a soaking tub, and both indoor and outdoor showers. They also offer your own private swimming pool and, several yards beyond the pool, your access to the beach. For families, there is a single Two Bedroom Villa available. In my opinion, these Villas are stunning rooms that represent the best value for luxury accommodations that I saw on Bora Bora.





If you want to snorkel and want larger, newer, more luxurious accommodations in a very secluded location, consider Bora Bora Nui Resort. (Nui means "big" in Polynesian, and this is a large resort.) There are a small number of villas on land, but most of the villas are overwater (meaning there is a great chance of being upgraded, especially during low season). The rooms are large (900 sf), beautifully decorated in a Polynesian motif, and each has a separate living room, bedroom, and a huge bathroom with marble floors and counters, soaking tub, and separate shower. There is good snorkeling right off your deck. The staff here could not be friendlier; you are welcomed with a musical greeting both on your arrival from the airport and on the occasion of your departure, and I was surprised on returning to my villa after dinner on Valentine's Day to find a bath already drawn and the tub decorated with flowers.

Newer resorts have been (or are being) built on the east side of the central island. The lagoon water here is an incredible shade of light aquamarine, due to the shallow sandy-bottomed water of this section of the lagoon. However, sandy bottoms are not what attracts fish; coral reefs are.








If you want to experience stunning and luxurious contemporary accommodations at a reasonable price, I would recommend the InterContinental Resort and Thalasso Spa Bora Bora. This is a new resort, only eight months old, and chef concierge Jerome Palacoeur is committed to training his staff to provide exceptional service. The guestrooms have a cool, elegant sophistication. Small flat screen televisions are found both in the living room (whose sofa can be made up into a single bed, or become a pull-out for two) and in the bedroom. The bedroom's flat screen swivels so that a guest can also watch the telly from the soaking tub. All rooms are of identical size; the views are what differentiate the suites. Definitely book a room with a full frontal view of Mount Pahia from the king beds; the view is incredible. Thalassa is the first resort in French Polynesia to employ geothermal energy for its air conditioning system. Cold water from 2000 feet beneath the ocean is pumped up and run through a heat exchanger, and I can testify that this technology provides the most efficient air conditioning in Bora Bora.






If you want to spare no expense to enjoy immense upscale guestrooms that could easily grace the pages of Architectural Digest, the St. Regis is your destination resort. The basic Deluxe Over-Water Villa is 1,550 square feet decorated with exotic woods and marble. The rooms feature two large flat screen televisions and WiFi. The most popular room at the resort is the 1905 sf Premier Over-Water Whirlpool Villa. St. Regis also offers a number of two-bedroom villas (great for families or two couples traveling together) ... and a 13,000 sf 3BR, 2LR Royal Estate. But my favorite of all were the Premier Beach Pool Villas with direct beach access and a direct view of the dark blue ocean waters beyond the outer reef of Bora Bora.

And as if that were not enough, Four Seasons is constructing a resort just north of the St. Regis (see picture below). The locals expect construction to be complete in early 2008. Given Four Seasons' reputation, this resort should offer very upscale guestrooms whose interior decoration is informed by Polynesian cultural motifs. Because there are so many choices at the upscale end of the market, all six resorts will have to compete for your dollars, so expect to be able to find excellent values in the luxury market in Bora Bora, especially in low season; April and May are said to be the best months of low season to visit.

Contact a Virtuoso agent for the complimentary amenities (complimentary breakfast each morning, upgrades on arrival if available, and others) that are available for properties affiliated with Virtuoso.

[See these other posts from my trip to Bora Bora.]

what to do in Bora Bora? nothing atoll

sneak preview: Four Seasons Bora Bora



If you have comments on this column, or questions about booking travel, email me or visit my website.

2.20.2007

sneak preview: Four Seasons Bora Bora



For those interested in such things, this is a photograph of the new Four Seasons Bora Bora currently under construction. (The picture was taken on Tuesday, Feb. 13, 2007.) Locals think that the hotel will be ready for occupancy in 2008. What can be seen here are a number of overwater bungalows in the process of construction. Obviously, nothing has been closed in, and the real work of making this worksite into a luxurious Four Seasons hotel (i.e., furnishing the rooms with Four Seasons' uniquely elegant style) has yet to begin.

If you'd like to be the first to stay in this new property, I'd love to be the first to book it!

[See these other posts from my trip to Bora Bora.]

the luxury hotels of Bora Bora

what to do in Bora Bora? nothing atoll



If you have comments on this column, or questions about booking travel, email me or visit my website.

2.18.2007

what to do in Bora Bora? nothing atoll

I'm writing this article from Bora Bora, in the middle of the South Pacific, thousands of miles from the nearest land mass. I'm looking through the window of my overwater bungalow at the Bora Bora Lagoon Resort. What I see is the very scene pictured here (straight from my digital camera to my blog). I can see the peak of Mount Pahia soaring 2,168 feet above the waters of the lagoon. I can see the Silversea cruise ship, the Silver Shadow, docked in the harbor at Vaitape. And now you can see it too.

There are basically two kinds of vacations. On some vacations, you are always on the go ... exploring the streets of a foreign city, visiting museums, traveling by metro or train, airplane or car to visit distant attractions. At night, you go out to restaurants, enjoy the nightlife, take in the city lights.

Other vacations are for relaxation. Relaxing comes very easily to some travelers, but it's hard for other vacationers (me?). Bora Bora is a place for relaxing. None of the stresses of city life are present. After four days on Bora Bora, I've fallen into a typical daily pattern: Get up early to watch and photograph the sunrise (one of my favorite artistic pursuits). Get breakfast. Go snorkeling. Come back to my overwater bungalow and read. Have lunch. Read some more. Maybe fall asleep and take a nap. Wake up and go snorkeling again. Get showered and dressed for dinner. Come back to the bungalow and go to sleep.

It doesn't help that the internet is omnipresent and that I can get my email, respond to people who have written me, and work on my blog. I really shouldn't be doing this. But I see it as a temporary diversion from my primary vocation here on Bora Bora ... doing nothing atoll.

[See these other Bora Bora posts from my trip.]

the luxury hotels of Bora Bora

sneak preview: Four Seasons Bora Bora



If you have comments on this column, or questions about booking travel, email me or visit my website.

2.11.2007

off to Bora Bora!

Is Bora Bora beckoning you? The incredible blue and aquamarine waters of this exotic island are 80ยบ year round. Teeming with colorful tropical fish, they offer great snorkeling!

French Polynesia has long held a special place in the Western imagination. The great French Post-Impressionist painter Paul Gauguin moved to the South Pacific, seeking the idyllic life of the tropics.

In my recent visit to Bora Bora, I visited six of its upscale, luxury resorts. Each is unique and will appeal to different guests. Read this review for my detailed recommendations about each. In the meantime, I want you to know about an exclusive offer through Virtuoso.

Exclusive Offer: Book any of the four Virtuoso hotels in French Polynesia through me (Bora Bora Nui Resort, Bora Bora Lagoon Resort, Hotel Bora Bora, and Le Taha'a Private Island). You will receive a complimentary breakfast for two each day, an upgrade on arrival subject to availability, and an additional amenity that may include free lunch for two, roundtrip airport transfers by boat, a flowerbed turndown, or another amenity that varies by property. Email me for more information about this offer.




If you have comments on this column, or questions about booking travel, email me or visit my website.

2.04.2007

a true gem in Aix-en-Provence

The Place de la Rotonde, Aix-en-Provence
photo from Wikipedia Commons taken by Daniel Arnold, released under GFDL and CC-BY-SA-2.0
If you are making plans to visit Provence, Aix-en-Provence is a great place to make your base. A student town, Aix is easily reached by the TGV train from Paris and is a destination well worth a visit. If you're there on a Saturday, you'll enjoy the street market, but no matter what day you arrive, make sure you see the studio where Cezanne painted, developing a style that ultimately led to cubism.

Where to stay in Aix-en-Provence? Fans of five-star hotels will love the Villa Gallici, a Virtuoso property. But if you love the kind of experience that a luxurious, wonderful Bed and Breakfast can offer, look no further than Sous le Tilleul.

Entering through these red doors just a short block from the Fountain de la Rotunde, right at the end of the Cours Mirabeau, you walk up one flight of steps where Marie-Christine will welcome you into her large, two-story apartment. You will enter into a warm, casually elegant living room with grand piano that looks out onto a beautiful courtyard. (Guests are free to use the living room while staying in the B&B). The breakfast room, where you will enjoy an exquisite French breakfast every morning of your stay, is right off the living room.

Walking up another flight of stairs, you will enter your own private 60 square meter suite... a large bedroom with four-poster bed; a wonderful, modern bathroom with a great shower; and your own private sitting room with satellite television. The apartment also has a washer and dryer that guests can use for a small charge.

Sous le Tilleul also has a separate furnished flat, 65 square meters, that can be rented by the week or by the month. This B&B is one of the best kept secrets in Provence ... at least until now!


If you have comments on this column, or questions about booking travel, email me or visit my website.